{"id":534,"date":"2018-08-30T15:05:49","date_gmt":"2018-08-30T21:05:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/joshromine.wordpress.com\/?p=534"},"modified":"2019-08-17T03:24:38","modified_gmt":"2019-08-17T03:24:38","slug":"credit-201-loan-to-value-a-buyers-guide-to-being-right-side-up","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mrbusinesscasual.com\/index.php\/2018\/08\/30\/credit-201-loan-to-value-a-buyers-guide-to-being-right-side-up\/","title":{"rendered":"Credit 201: “Loan-To-Value: A Buyer’s Guide to Being Right Side Up!”"},"content":{"rendered":"

“So what is LTV?<\/strong><\/i><\/h3>\n

LTV or “Loan-to-Value” is the ratio that tells lenders how<\/i> Upside-Down you are on your collateralized loan. For example, home loan lenders nearly always ask for their loans to be in a Positive Equity position — meaning the borrower is right-side-up at the time of purchase because of a down payment. Auto Loan Lenders however, have guidelines in place that are individual to the Type & Age of Collateral as well as the Credit Tier of the Applicant.<\/p>\n

“Where can I find out the true value?”<\/i><\/h3>\n

Currently, there are many ways that different institutions determine value, but the most standard approach is to use the same numbers that the insurance companies and automotive dealers themselves are using. NADA (National Automotive Dealership Association<\/a><\/strong> <\/span>has 4 figures when looking up a Used Vehicle value and 2 figures on New Vehicles.<\/p>\n

Used Vehicles<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n

Rough, Average, Clean Trade-In<\/strong><\/i>,<\/i> Clean Retail.<\/p>\n

New Vehicles<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n

Invoice<\/i><\/strong>,<\/strong> MSRP (Manufacturer Suggest Retail)<\/p>\n

Used Vehicle’s true values are referred to as the “Clean Trade-In<\/strong> value” and on a New and untitled vehicle this base value is referred to as the “Dealer Invoice<\/strong>“. After looking up your own vehicle or the one you plan to purchase a simple calculation can determine your Loan-to-Value:<\/p>\n

\n

Amount of Loan \u00f7 NADA Value \u00d7 100 = <\/strong>LTV<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Ex: $23,798<\/strong> Borrowed \u00f7 $18,380<\/strong> Clean Trade-In on NADA \u00d7 100 = <\/strong>129%<\/strong><\/span> LTV<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

<\/h3>\n

<\/p>\n

“So what’s that mean for me?<\/strong><\/i><\/h3>\n

For instance, a borrower with A+ Credit (720+) buying a brand new truck with only test-drive miles on it may be able to borrow as much as 140% of its Clean Trade Value if the lender allows it. So if the truck he’s buying is worth $35,600 then he can still roll in Tax, Title, and license fees (which are often much cheaper than what the dealer lists), as well as “back-end<\/i>” products and installations such as extended warranties, GAP Policies, and service agreements.<\/p>\n

Wondering if you need a GAP Policy? Read my post about GAP<\/a><\/strong><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Keep this in mind the next time a dealership tries to convince you that your bank or credit union is asking for more money down! Maybe the real truth is your bank has limits on exactly how much upside down they can let you be. In fact, the dealership knows this too, but what kind of business would they be if they were to lower their sales price before seeing if you can cough up more cash to put down first! Well they sure wouldn’t be the most profitable business, that’s for sure. What we as consumers really ought to be asking in this scenario is, “Why dear dealer are you not selling me this car\/truck for the NADA Clean Trade value that we all know it is actually worth?”<\/p>\n

Alas, your financial institution, your credit union or bank that is, won’t let you drive away so upside down that it hurts. Each lender establishes limits that keep LTV’s under certain maximums. Typically this depends on the type of collateral and your credit score. For example, luxury items like Boats and RV’s are typically capped at roughly 110%, while an A+ credit individual buying a decently new truck may be allowed to be as upside down as 140% LTV. Adversely, someone with poor credit wishing to buy that very same truck might be capped at 115% LTV and thus be forced to put more cash down to make the same purchase.<\/p>\n

“What else contributes to a vehicle’s loss of value?”<\/strong><\/i><\/h3>\n

NEW VEHICLES<\/span><\/p>\n

It’s a well heard cliche’ when someone says “that new vehicle of yours will lose value the moment you drive it off of the lot!”, but few hear how much value it does lose. What I’m about to say is going to sound somewhat vague and not exact because of the many other factors that play in, but a safe number to throw out there would be 10%. So let’s just say that your new vehicle, once it is no longer “new” but officially becomes yours and therefore meets the criteria of a “Used Car”, loses around 10% of its Invoice value. So then, it really isn’t when you drive it off the lot…<\/span> instead<\/i> it’s when you title it in your name. At that moment it has officially swapped categories altogether. This is why waiting for that make and model to not only be on sale, but to come with multiple rebates is so important — that and haggling them down to Invoice like your life depends on it! Let’s face the facts though. No matter how well you haggle, you cannot override or avoid that singular fact; that your vehicle will <\/i>lose a chunk of value right at the beginning and exponentially so thereafter.
\nNEW & USED<\/span><\/p>\n

Regardless of whether you bought a new vehicle from a dealer, got one from a friend, or bought one that had aged better than a bottle of Macallen single malt scotch; the fact remains that vehicles are depreciating pieces of collateral. i.e. They will <\/i>lose value over time. Some common factors that contribute even further to the depreciation are mileage, supply and demand for used cars, aftermarket installations, the popularity of that make\/model, and obviously signs of damage or wear. This applies to Refinanced cars as well. Your warranty carries over when you refi, but your GAP policy is no longer valid at that time since it was insuring the loan that got paid off, not the collateral itself.<\/p>\n

When is GAP a good idea? <\/a><\/strong><\/i>Read more<\/a><\/strong><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

<\/h3>\n

So then, let’s go out into the world and use this knowledge. You should now be able to determine the value of your trade-in and of the vehicles you plan to buy, as well as equipped to determine whether you do or do not need GAP coverage. You should also now feel a bit more savvy as to why a dealership may have had to ask you to put more money down or why it’s so important to know true values when haggling.<\/p>\n

The honest banker,<\/p>\n

Josh Romine<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

LTV or “Loan-to-Value” is the ratio that tells lenders how Upside-Down you are on your\u00a0collateralized loan. … Continue readingCredit 201: “Loan-To-Value: A Buyer’s Guide to Being Right Side Up!”<\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1435,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,7,1,12,13],"tags":[25,41,43,46,47,49,52],"class_list":["post-534","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-credit-101","category-finance","category-uncategorized","category-underwriting","category-vehicles","tag-collateral","tag-installment","tag-ltv","tag-ratio","tag-ratios","tag-types-of-loans","tag-upsidedown"],"yoast_head":"\nMrBusinessCasual - How LTV Can Save or Cost You Thousands...<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Ever wonder what your vehicle is truly worth? 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